Tom Bowles - Fortnum & Mason - Christmas & Other Winter Feasts

4th Estate

An imprint of HarperCollins Publishers 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF www.4thEstate.co.uk

First published in Great Britain by 4th Estate in 2018

Copyright © Fortnum & Mason Plc 2018

All photographs © David Loftus 2018

Fortnum & Mason assert their moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

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A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

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Source ISBN: 9780008305017

Ebook Edition © August 2018 ISBN: 9780008305024

Version: 2018-09-21

To the Weston family, for their passion and careful custodianship since 1951, and all of the Fortnum’s family: past, present and future

Cover

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Edward Bawden

Introduction

Ingredients

Guy Fawkes

Spicy Lentil and Chestnut Casserole with Venison Sausages

Game Pasties

Baked Jacket Potatoes with Lemon Crème Fraîche and Caviar

Baked Jacket Potatoes with Smoked Salmon and Dill Cream Cheese

Baked Jacket Potatoes with Pumpkin and Coconut Curry

Brownies with Dark Chocolate Ganache and Honeycomb

Caramelised Bramley Apple Pancakes

Glorious Game

Grouse and Pearl Barley Broth

Pappardelle with Venison Ragù, Red Cabbage and Pecorino

Duck Ras El Hanout with Duck Samosas and Saffron Couscous

Roast Partridge, Salsify and Savoy Cabbage with Port and Fig Sauce

Pot-Roast Pheasant with Pearl Barley, Braised Red Cabbage and Swede Sauce

Game Faggots with Celeriac PurÉe and Carrots

Game Suet Pudding

Traditional Roast Grouse

Bread Sauce

Grouse and Foie Gras Pie with Blackberry Chutney and Malt Gravy

Guinea Fowl Breasts with Fennel, Red Cabbage and Oakleaf Salad

Rabbit Fillets with Beetroot and Kale Salad, Sage and Shallot Dressing

Skating

Mutton Scotch Broth

Beaufort and Stilton Fondue with Thyme Garlic Toasts

Tartiflette

Welsh Rarebit Toasties

Mushroom and Raclette Burger

Salt Beef Sandwiches with Sauerkraut on Rye

Poutine

Sharing Chocolate Fondue

The Big Event Baking

Festive Fruit Cake

Chestnut, Almond and Rum Cake

Cinnamon and Orange Biscuits

Malt and Five-Spice Biscuits

Boozy Christmas Cake

Shortbread Dusted with Clove Sugar

Pistachio Brioche

Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

Millionaire Shortbread (Vegan)

Drinks

Sloe Negroni

Fortnum’s Hot Toddy

Ampersand

Hot Chocolate with Salted Caramel Marshmallow

Hot Chocolate with Butterscotch Schnapps

Hot Chocolate with Sloe Gin

Christmas Eve

Poached Pears with Stilton and Truffle Honey

Noble Welsh Rarebit

Sausage Rolls

Mackerel and Caviar Taco

Christmas Day

Truffled Scrambled Egg

Spiced Granola with Apricot Relish and Coconut Yoghurt

Highland Scramble

Mulled Wine-Cured Salmon

Halibut with Caviar, Parsley and Vermouth Butter Sauce

Roast Turkey with All The Trimmings

Roast Potatoes

Honey-Glazed Parsnips

Swede and Carrot Mash

Sprouts and Bacon

Roast Venison with Celeriac Dauphinoise and Chocolate Sauce

Roast Goose with Apple Sauce and Cavolo Nero

Portobello Mushroom Wellington

Chocolate Trifle with Glacé Fruits

Marmalade and Almond Tart

Christmas Pudding Soufflés with Orange Ice Cream

Banana and Yule Log Profiteroles with Hot Chocolate Sauce

Stem Ginger Pudding

Boxing Day

Braised Oxtail with Dumplings

Fortnum’s Beef Tea Broth

Potted Ham Hock

Grilled Aubergine with Crushed Chickpeas

Roasted Squash, Feta and Pine Nut Salad

Salmon En Croûte with Chive Butter Sauce

Bubble and Squeak with Stilton

Puff Pastry Case Of Glazed Parsnips with Morel Cream Sauce

Winter Vegetable Curry

Pineapple Tarte Tatin

Lime Curd and Pistachio Tart

Prune and Almond Tart

Cherrilossus Sundae

Black Forest Log

Muscat Grapes In Port and Apple Jelly

Waste Not, Want Not

Turkey Broth with Dumplings

Turkey Scotch Eggs

Turkey and Gruyère Croquettes

Fish Pie with Carrot and Parsnip Mash

Goose Cassoulet

Sage Toad-In-The-Hole with Pigs In Blankets and Onion Gravy

Black Pudding on Fried Bread with Duck Eggs and Tomato Jam

Turkey, Red Cabbage and Chestnut Pie

Brussels Sprout and Kale Tart with Caramelised Shallot and Thyme Sauce

New Year’s Eve

Scottish Langoustine with Saffron Aïoli

Gin, Orange and Coriander Gravadlax

Beef Fillet and Bèarnaise Sauce

Mini Beetroot and Apple Burgers with Jackfruit Salsa

January Eating

Mussel Minestrone

Spiced Parsnip Soup

Sea Bream Ceviche with Chilli and Basil

Grilled Mackerel with Gooseberry

Sea Bass with Jerusalem Artichokes and Tomato Salsa Verde

Scallop Ceviche with Stem Ginger

Lamb Skewers with Couscous and Mint Yoghurt

Cauliflower Couscous (Vegan)

Vegetarian Kedgeree

Salsify, Beetroot and Chard Salad

Rainbow Chard with Girolles and Parmesan

Warm Salad Of Jerusalem Artichoke, Cauliflower and Harissa

Roasted Sweet Potato and Red Onion Salad

Burns’ Night Cock-A-Leekie Soup

Burns’ Night Haggis with Neeps, Ayrshire Tatties and Whisky Jus

Clementine Jelly

Apple, Ginger, Pineapple and Fresh Turmeric Juice

The Green Smoothie

ABC

Credits

Index

Acknowledgements

About the Author

About the Publisher

For many, Fortnum & Mason is all about the food. And rightly so. But back in the 1920s, it added another rather lovely string to an already elegant bow. Because it was then, among the cold, parsimonious monotony of post-war Britain, that a glorious burst of colour exploded throughout the relentless, gunmetal-grey gloom. In the form of the Fortnum’s Commentaries, lavishly illustrated, beautifully written booklets created by Colonel Charles Wyld, the legendary Fortnum’s managing director, in partnership with Hugh Stuart Menzies and Marcus Brumwell, whose advertising agency held the Fortnum’s account.

At heart, the Commentaries were direct mail catalogues, expressly designed to boost sales. But they were done in such style, with such wit and verve, both visual and written, that they far transcend their commercial roots. ‘I visualised little booklets,’ said Menzies a few years later, ‘sent to a carefully chosen mailing list; booklets as readable as something bought at a bookstall or drawn from the library. Every preconceived notion of a trade catalogue was to be violated. Space was to be sacrificed to pure fun in every direction …’ Their enduring appeal is testament to the brilliance of Wyld, Menzies and Brumwell.