Jan Fennell - The Practical Dog Listener - The 30-Day Path to a Lifelong Understanding of Your Dog

A dog does not really care whether its owner lives in a tent or a palace. The criteria it regards as important are more to do with the comfort, safety and quality of life it enjoys rather than the particulars of its surroundings. If only we humans were less materialistic sometimes: as long as a dog is cared for in the right way, it will be happy.

In preparing to put my method into practice, I would advise you to make a few specific provisions around the home. Some of them are obvious, others less so. Each is important if life with a new dog is to get off on the right footing.

Decide where the dog is going to sleep. It is vital that the dog or puppy has its own space, its own refuge. It must be able to lie down on its side with about three to four inches to spare either side. It should have about the same space when it stretches out lengthwise. I personally like to use dog cages: my dogs seem to enjoy the idea that they have their own secure, enclosed space. I always leave the gate open so they can move freely. They are also perfect for travelling in the car.

A dog does not need to have an expensive basket or kennel of its own; a supermarket cardboard box turned on its side provides a safe, secure space. I always find putting an old jumper in it helps. It provides warmth and cover but has the added advantage over a clean blanket that it also smells of the family.

Decide on the no-go areas in the home. There will be areas where you will not want the dog to stray, typically bathrooms and toilets, maybe a study or dining room. You should establish these areas in your mind in advance. Every member of the family should also be aware of the rules: instilling them into the dog will prove that much easier later on.

Gates:With the above in mind, I recommend placing a children’s gate between the kitchen and the hallway. It ensures that the dog does not follow you everywhere, something that is a particular trait with puppies. At the same time, you will be able to keep an eye on the dog’s movements. The only thing to watch out for is that the gaps between the bars are not wide enough for the dog to get its head stuck.

Garden:The garden area will be of vital importance to both you and your dog, not just during the first thirty days but also throughout your lives together. You should ensure that the area is secure and that your dog cannot escape. As with the internal gates, you should also make sure there is no danger of the dog’s head being trapped in fencing. In assessing this, I do warn owners that I have had to extricate puppies from the most unlikely places: don’t underestimate their ability to stick their heads in the tightest spaces!

It may be stating the blindingly obvious here, but there are still many owners who seem to overlook the most basic practical preparations for the arrival of a new dog. The list that follows is customised to allow you to apply my method immediately.

Feeding Bowls:Two bowls are essential. One is for water, which should be filled with fresh water twenty-four hours a day and should be changed at least two to three times a day. The other is for food. As you will see later, an extra supply of bowls – up to four per dog – may come in useful in applying part of my method.

Collar and Lead:It will be several days before the dog is ready to go on a walk. Before then, however, there will be times when it will be used for heel work inside the house.

Toys:Again, there is no need to go to any extraordinary expense here. For puppies in particular, I find there is nothing better than an old tea towel or blanket, soaked in water, then tied in a knot. It is perfect for young dogs with immature, malleable teeth.

Grooming Brushes:Grooming is an important element of looking after a dog. As well as keeping the dog in condition, it allows you to keep a regular monitor on your animal’s weight, skin condition and general welfare. It is also another means of forging a close personal bond with a dog. Long-haired dogs like cocker spaniels and Old English sheepdogs cannot be left for more than six days without being brushed. The knotted coat that results after this time can be painful and extremely unhygienic. Owners will need a ‘slicker’ brush for these dogs. For smooth-coated dogs, a soft brush will suffice. I also find it useful to use a pair of rubber gloves. They can be perfect for scrubbing particularly tricky areas clean.

First-Aid Kit:In case of emergencies, it is advisable to have a collection of medicines, such things as wound dressings, ointments and ear drops.

Food Rewards:An essential element of the work that lies ahead involves the awarding of tidbits of food. Before your dog arrives, ensure there is a good supply of special treats, things such as reward sticks, meat strips or (my personal favourite) pieces of cheese.

Good, Local Vet:I suggest to all potential dog owners that they spend a little time checking out the vets in their area. It is a good idea to get the dog registered in advance.

By far the most important preparation is that which must go on in your head. Unless you have grasped the central principles of my method, you should not proceed with it. You must be ready to see every situation in the right context: in terms of the dog and its view of its place in the domestic ‘pack’. In addition, you must also make practical preparations for the days ahead.

One important piece of advice I like to get across to owners from the start is that they should never set themselves up for failure. By this I mean that, in the days ahead, there will be some setbacks that you cannot predict – and they are probably going to be related to the particular traits of your dog’s personality. But, at the same time, there are going to be some mistakes that you can avoid through proper, careful planning, for instance, you should always have a ready supply of food reward with you. Try to be prepared for every eventuality that is thrown at you.

Absolutely central to everything I do is a sense of calm. For this reason, you must be prepared to allow more time for everything; if you are impatient, it won’t happen. You must be ready to put your dog’s needs high on your agenda for a month. You must be ready to put yourself out for your dog. And, throughout this time, you must remember that you are taking into your home a creature whose language and needs are different from yours. Most crucial of all, you must accept that the dog is not going to learn your language – it is up to you to learn the dog’s language. And, for this reason, every grown-up member of the family must take some time to familiarise themselves with the principles of bonding before the process begins.

A good owner should always anticipate their dog’s doubts and questions. You should try to think ahead and recognise the things that a dog is going to find confusing or frightening. For instance, a dog is not being stupid if it recoils when a vacuum cleaner or a dishwasher or washing machine is switched on. I ask people to imagine how they would feel if they didn’t comprehend what they were encountering. They’d want to know whether this was something that was going to cause them harm.

Learning my method is akin to learning a new language. Anyone who has had to master this skill will know what a difficult and time-consuming business it can be. They will also know that it requires absolute concentration and commitment, and a mind that is receptive and open to new ideas. It is no different with my method: you must not only be willing and able to learn, you must be mentally ready too. This is why I do not recommend you begin at times of emotional stress. Far better to postpone the introduction of Amichien Bonding until your mind is clear and focused.