Roasted Salmon & Fennel Pâté & Puff Pastry Pie
Chicken Pieces Two Ways, Potato Gratin, Carrot & Celeriac
Hot Chips & Tips
Rice Cubes, Tofu with Mangetouts, Mango, Cucumber & Mint Salad, Sweetcorn & Carrot Fritters
Apricot-stuffed Belly of Pork, Spring Cabbage with Caraway Seeds, Spinach in White Sauce
Indian Stuffed Squid, Jeera Rice, Turmeric Cabbage
Ice Cream with Chocolate & Honey Sauce
Yoghurt, Saffron & Cinnamon Sorbet
Carrageen with Nutmeg, Cream & Maple Syrup
Poached Pumpkin with Crème Fraîche
Barbara Fitzgerald’s Clafoutis
Marmalade Queen of Puddings
Rice Pudding, Indian-style
Sweet Little Coconut Cakes
JAMMING SUPPERS
Pulpo on Toast
Sardine Pâté on Baguette
Smoked Mackerel Pâté on Toast
Baguette with Boquerones
Pan con Tomate
Fontal & Grated Braeburn on Toast
Bruschetta with Cucumber, Basil & Chilli
Bruschetta with Spinach & Sultanas
Crispy Chicken Pieces, Polenta & Roasted Red Pepper Sauce
Squid Ink Spaghetti with Prawns, Chilli & Bacon & Roasted Fennel Salad
Fillet of Pork with Mustard & Honey Sauce, Lemon Smashed New Potatoes
A Little Roasted Chicken with Lemons & Penne, Tzatziki-style
Smoked Mackerel & Chard Bake with a Crunchy Top
Smoked Haddock & Watercress Risotto with Griddled Courgettes
Moules Marinière with Spaghettini
Pumpkin & Gorgonzola Lasagne
Herby Homemade Pasta Sheets with a Perfect Yellow Tomato Salad
Homely Saffron Chicken
Pearl Barley Risotto with Tomato & Ricotta
My Lasagne, with Chestnut, Pancetta & Cabbage
Super Easy Mushroom & Chicken Korma with Raita
Coconut & Cardamom Custard
Biddy’s Microwave Steamed Pudding
Dark Chocolate & Raspberry Cups
Sweet Yellow Lentil Dhal
Baked Amaretti & Goat’s Cheesecake
Really Easy Brandy & Almond Tiramisù
Golden Brown Tarte Tatin
Mallika’s Baked Yoghurts Two Ways
SOULFUL GRUB
Stav B’s Pumpkin & Red Lentil Soup
Raf’s Lettuce Soup
Gascon Soup made with Wild Mushrooms, Tomatoes & Sherry Vinegar
Onion & Butter Bean Soup
Courgette, Chickpea & Mint Soup
Spiced Carrot Soup
Beetroot & Pear Soup
Warming Orecchiette with Sausage & Sage
Raf Daddy’s Groundnut Curry
Polenta & Vegetable Bake for Dani
Ebi Chilli Men for Tom & Olly
Doctor Helen’s Signature Butternut Squash Pasta with Chilli Flakes & Chorizo
Korean Beef Salad
Broccoli & Cauliflower Cheese
Simplest Red Spaghetti with Thyme, Straight From Urbisaglia
Alice’s Cottage Pie
Sweet Laksa with Udon Noodles
Cabbage & Sausage Hotpot
Penne with Creamy Tomato & Tuna
Lamb & Aubergine Pilaf
Tuscan Bean Stew with Riso Pasta
BALMY BITES
Pea & Mint Dip
Aubergine & Salami Stacks
Pat’s Green Beans with Goat’s Cheese
White Alubias with Anchovies & Herbs
Sonar Lentil Salad
Herby Spare Ribs, Porchetta-style
Moroccan Salsa
Dom’s Marital Potato Salad
Mum’s Lemon Garden Vegetables
Summer of Love Salad
Nutty Brown Rice & Bean Salad
Mr Dan’s Bulgar Wheat Salad
Radicchio & Pancetta Salad
Gillie’s Chicory & Orange Salad with Two Different Dressings
Rosemary-roasted Sweet Potatoes
Fruit Brûlée
Apple Purée with Syllabub
Orange Blossom Custards
Semolina & Syrup Cakes
Far Out Eton Mess
Rhubarb & Whiskey Fool
Essentials
COFFEE, TEA OR ME?
Drop Scones, Mum’s Way
Yoghurt Cake
Simplest Orange & Almond Cake
Edna’s Chocolate & Hazelnut Cookies
Classic Cricket Tea: Victoria Sponge with Strawberries & Cream
My Spiced Apple Cake with Buckwheat
Orange Shortbread
Baby Banana Cakes
Doctor Helen’s Mascarpone Mojito Cheesecake
Honey Flapjacks
My Favourite Places to Eat, Drink & Shop
Index
Acknowledgements
About the Author
Copyright
About the Publisher
Another late night in Soho at the New Evaristo Club. Now, as usual, my alarm is pounding at me, calling me to the deli. Showered and squeezed into trusty jeans, I dash out of the door of my damp 1930s flat. Round on the main road I pass Simon, one of the more amenable local down-and-outs. ‘All right, Ma’am.’ He’ll be in later for his hot chocolate with five sugars. I nip into the Portuguese deli to pick up fresh rocket for the shop, and then into the Iraqi supermarket to buy free-range eggs for the scrambling rush later. Electric Avenue is particularly alive at this time of the morning, with sex workers, red snappers, pig’s tails and pulsing beats coming from every crevice. The fishmongers holler at me and, laden with my shopping, I nod my good-mornings to market traders and road sweeps.
Arriving at the deli, I fling the door wide open, turn the fans on and get The View playing, to beat out my tired head. Pastry out of the fridge for rolling, cakes onto the stands, tables and chairs outside, oven on, flick lights. The daily cheese and bread deliveries arrive – Sardinian Pecorino, Taleggio, Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire, Hereford Hop, sourdough, rye, ciabatta – just as I’m making myself a double-shot cappuccino to drink in the last bit of peace on my doorstep.
Brixtonians rush past on their way to the tube, with cheery waves. My moment is broken by the first telephone call of the morning – Alice. ‘What shall I cook for my date tonight?’ (She’s excited, so I’m thinking risotto with black pudding and ice cream drowned in espresso.) By this point I’m juggling, squeezing lemons for the daily batch of houmous with the phone wedged between my shoulder and cheek. My first early customers, the loyal Bharat and superwoman Kylie Morris, arrive, armed with newspapers and requesting their morning soya lattes.
As I steam their milk, I’m mulling over what salad to make this morning. Vietnamese carrot and peanuts, nutty brown rice with seeds, or couscous with mint and feta? And as they eat their toast with mackerel pâté, I’m wondering what will soothe my weariness tonight. Baked polenta, beans on toast or boquerones? Mum is calling. Have I got time to pick up the phone before the next customers descend? ‘Oh darling, you’ll never guess what we had for supper last night…’ Asparagus from her garden. The day is truly in swing now. I’m navigating cooking, serving breakfasts and all the usual flurry of telephone calls, Daddy’s usual herbal tea and the ordering, when I drop my ciabatta…a curly-haired boy has just ambled in…And how shall I woo you with my wares?
Foods for the first wave of a hangover, or just to start the day with a bang, when you need some morning loving or have a dawn appetite. These breakfast recipes hail from the deli, my travels and a frugal upbringing. Favourite morning foods. Starting the day with an egg is surely one of life’s best treats. But sometimes we crave something more wholesome, to kick-start the morning and give sustained energy, like porridge or muesli. I often make a vat of muesli, which keeps me going for a few months and is a good economy drive when I’m a bit stumped for cash.
It all rather depends on who you’re with and how you’re feeling, and what’s actually in the fridge: hangovers usually demand fried foods like Rupert’s eggy bread, but friends for breakfast could prompt some steaming sweet muffins. My mum says breakfast is the best meal of the day, which it certainly is at her big oak table, with her homemade yoghurt, popovers, marmalade and bread and fragrant coffees.
Each country has its own take on breakfast too, often revolving around the glorious egg. I never tire of the magical egg. Egg-fried noodles on the Khao San Road in Bangkok, eggs Benedict in London, oeufs en cocotte in France. An omelette is one of my favourite ways to use up leftover vegetables.
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