Rose Prince - The Savvy Shopper

Sometimes the British climate has its benefits. Our spring emerges out of winter so slowly that plants struggle to get going, battling against unexpected droughts, frosts or freak torrential rainfall. With asparagus, the outcome of growing in such crazy conditions is a vegetable with a feistier flavour than its southern European rival. But that’s not the only reason to buy British…

Before our season begins, the majority of our spring asparagus comes from an earlier growing season in Spain. Spanish asparagus is also grown outdoors but, while some can be very good indeed, it grows faster in Spain’s warmer climate and its taste will never be as intense as that of British asparagus. All asparagus must be cooked as soon as possible after picking or the stems will become tough, so imports, which of course take time to travel to the UK shops, are at a disadvantage. Asparagus from Spain can have several centimetres of tough, inedible stalk.

Air miles can be a serious problem for exported asparagus. Spanish asparagus is transported by lorry but asparagus from other exporting countries, including Thailand and Peru, is air freighted. Environmentalists point out that this is a high fuel–oil cost for a low-calorie food – meaning is it worth the environmental cost to ship a nonessential food? I’d argue that there is more justification in shipping bananas or citrus fruit. The best line to take is to choose imported – preferably outdoor-grown Spanish – as an occasional luxury.

Usually around the end of April, running to a cut-off point in the third week of June. Growers must leave enough stalks in the ground to ‘go to seed’ and so provide a good crop for the following year.

Newly developed breeds of asparagus have a uniform tenderness along the stalk that allows them to be snapped at the base during harvest, not cut. It was the case that the old breeds were cut, just under the ground, so the stalks were sold with a tougher end to them. Asparagus steamers were created so that the whole stalk would cook evenly.

The modern breeds can be boiled for five to seven minutes, until just tender when pierced with a knife, then lifted out and laid on a tea towel to drain thoroughly (do not bruise them by throwing them into a colander). Chefs often pare away the outer skin on the lower end of the stalk to guarantee even cooking. This is a good idea that also yields extra-green cooked stalks.

It is hard to track chemical use in importing countries but Spanish growers who supply UK supermarkets may not use any more than their UK counterparts. Chemical use in the UK varies; if you want to avoid all but the organic sector’s few approved chemicals, then buy organic, where all weeding is done by hand. But there are conventional suppliers – even large-scale ones – who measure the impact they have on the environment: carrying out ornithological surveys and encouraging beneficial predatory insects on crops to replace pesticides. Members of the Asparagus Growers Association (see page 40) are refreshingly transparent about pesticide use. Responsible growers are reluctant to use sprays because almost the whole plant is eaten.

The big problem for growers is weeds, so in the UK a limited number of herbicides is conventionally used before the shoots appear. After that, growers should weed by hand, but there is no rule that guarantees this. Fungicides are sometimes used during a harvest in wet weather. The point about asparagus is that the stalks are above ground for no more than 11 days, so with decent weather conditions and no pest attacks they stand a good chance of being chemical free.

Reports recording pesticide residues comfort a little. Both British and imported asparagus were tested for residues in spring 2004. Residues were found on one out of 47 samples. The sample – from Peru – contained residues of the pesticide cypermethrin below UK maximum residue levels, but obviously if other growers can produce residue-free asparagus, we do not want to see any at all.

It is classed as a ‘superfood’, especially for pregnant women, because it contains particularly high levels of natural folic acid, plus vitamins A, C and E. It is also a good source of potassium and fibre – so eat lots during the glut.

The smell in urine after eating asparagus comes from sulphur-containing degradation products that are created as the body metabolises the asparagus. The odour, which can be nasty, gave the asparagus its old reputation, ‘chambermaid’s nightmare’. It is said that healthy kidney function will produce that smelly ‘pee’ within 15 minutes of eating the stalks, but it is also true that some people are totally unable to detect the smell, so don’t panic if you eat asparagus and the air in the loo appears, er, as sweet as ever.

White asparagus is very popular in Belgium, France and Italy but imported stalks can be flavourless and tough. Red asparagus, which crops at the same time as green, is making a comeback in the UK and is available in May. Asparagus ‘sprue’ is not another breed, just thin stalks, and is very good stir-fried or cooked quickly and added to a risotto.

Green asparagus is sold in two thicknesses, ‘jumbo’ and ‘kitchen’. There is little difference in flavour; it is always the freshness that counts. Sniff the tips, which should smell fresh and fruity, not of compost. Inspect the stalks for damage and look out for very dry ends, which probably mean that the asparagus has been hanging about a bit.

Supermarkets tend to buy direct from farms, but nevertheless you need to scrutinise their asparagus for signs of age. It is possible that it has been held in a warehouse for up to three days before distribution.

For the freshest asparagus, buy direct from farms, produce markets or from local greengrocers who go to regional wholesale markets that take delivery of freshly picked asparagus from local farms every night.

Sainsburyclaims to take all the British produce that is available to it during the UK season but says that demand outstrips supply. In these cases it imports produce, from countries in Asia, the Americas, and Africa. All of this produce is transported by road and air freight. Sainsbury also stocks organic asparagus.

Tesco’sasparagus is grown in Peru and Guatemala. Tesco states that it sources British when quality is at its best. It also sells an organic variety.

Marks & Spencersources its asparagus from Peru, the UK and South Africa. It says that it has extended the selling period of British asparagus, now selling it out of season for two months longer – to great success (obviously). The asparagus is usually transported by air and road freight.

The Co-opsources its asparagus from the UK, Peru and Thailand. There is no organic option. The asparagus is transported via road and air freight.

Budgens’asparagus is sourced from the UK when in season, Peru and Spain at other times. It does not sell an organic variety.

Pick-your-own farms and farm shops are the best source of asparagus during the season, and very good value. Buying from them also supports the local economy. The Asparagus Growers Association has a list of all suppliers who sell at the farm gate: look at www.british-asparagus.co.ukor phone 01507 602427.