Rachel Allen - Home Cooking

3Once cool enough to handle, use a spoon to scoop the flesh from the skin of the aubergine. Discard the skin and put the flesh into a food processor with the garlic, tahini, lemon juice and the remaining olive oil. Blend until smooth and transfer to a bowl. Alternatively, place all the ingredients in the bowl and purée using a hand-held blender. Allow to cool.

4Once cool, fold in the yoghurt and almost all of the parsley. Check the seasoning, adjusting if necessary, then spoon into a serving bowl and scatter with the remaining parsley.

I love this sauce. It is rather like a pesto — great drizzled over barbecued lamb chops, for instance, or of course with the lamb koftas. It keeps really well in a jar in the fridge for up to a week. Just cover with a thin layer of olive oil to help preserve.

4 tbsp roughly chopped coriander, including soft stalks

2 tbsp roughly chopped mint

1 spring onion, trimmed and roughly chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 150ml (5fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor, season with salt and pepper and blend until fairly smooth, adding a little more oil if necessary. Alternatively, make by hand by finely chopping the herbs, spring onion and garlic and stirring into the oil. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, and place in a serving bowl.

150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt

3 tbsp roughly chopped mint

½ cucumber, diced

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

Juice and finely grated zest of ½ lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the yoghurt in a small bowl and mix in the mint, cucumber, garlic and lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

This classic dip from India and South Asia is the perfect foil for spicy food, the yoghurt providing a welcome cooling touch.

1 × 250g tub of Greek-style yoghurt

½ cucumber, deseeded and diced

2 tbsp chopped mint

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply stir all the ingredients together and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Hummus is the Arabic word for chickpeas. Of course you can buy this in many shops now but it is quick and easy to make at home and so versatile. I often add chopped coriander or mint and sometimes a little chopped red chilli. It will keep in the fridge for 4–5 days.

1 × 400g (14oz) tin of chickpeas, drained, or 125g (4½oz) dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked (see page 329)

Juice of ½–1 lemon

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

2 heaped tbsp tahini paste (sesame paste)

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp natural yoghurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor, season with salt and pepper and blend until really smooth, adding a little more oil if necessary. Check the seasoning, adding more lemon juice and salt and pepper if needed, and place in a serving bowl.

As well as serving with the lamb koftas, these could be used for dipping into and scooping up any of the dips on their own. They’re best served straight away, slightly warm, but they will keep for a day or two in an airtight container, reheated when you need them.

2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted (see tip on page 50) 4 pitta breads, cut into wedges 2–3 tbsp olive oil

½ tsp finely chopped deseeded red chilli (optional)

¼ tsp sea salt

1Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2Crush the toasted cumin seeds using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder. Alternatively, once the seeds are cool, put them into a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin. Place the pitta wedges in a large bowl, pour over the olive oil, add the crushed cumin seeds, chilli (if using) and salt and toss together to coat evenly.

3Spread out flat on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 4–5 minutes until pale golden. Keep an eye on them as they can burn easily!

There’s something special about a home-packed meal when you are out and about, on a train or car trip, out walking in the hills, enjoying a lazy afternoon at the beach or taking a break at work or school. My mother-in-law, Darina, is the snack queen when it comes to travelling. Once we all flew together to Mexico, and mid-flight she took out some lovely smoked salmon and brown bread sandwiches. I was so glad to be travelling with her! When we’re travelling with the children, I’m always especially thankful that I’ve got packed food with me. It’s not only practical and economical, but it can be a great distraction for restless young travellers. A bag of popcorn or some delicious homemade baked goods, such as the Squashed-fly Biscuits on page 277, are great for snacking.

Salads are great on-the-go foods and so many dishes are perfect served cold or at room temperature. They can easily be popped into a lidded plastic container for lunch on the hoof. Cold cooked pasta, rice, couscous and orzo are all wonderful as a base for salads. Try any of them with cut-up raw or roasted vegetables (peppers, tomato, broccoli, courgette), a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon and other ingredients, such as chorizo, feta cheese, spring onion or a bit of crushed garlic for flavour. I love leftover cooked pasta or new potatoes mixed with tuna, hard-boiled egg, olives, tomatoes and cucumber. Beans, such as haricot or cannellini, chickpeas and lentils also work well as a base for a salad. Do avoid any kind of lettuce-based salad, though, as the leaves will go soggy.

Not everyone loves sandwiches, but luckily there are so many delicious alternatives. For instance, pack a few flour or corn tortillas, some refried beans, shredded cooked chicken and tomato salsa and you can assemble portable tostadas on the spot (see pages 137–9). Chutney and crackers with cheese or cold meats are also perfectly portable. Leftover roast meat, meatloaf (see page 191) or nut loaf and pâté, not to mention the Pork and Egg Picnic Pie on page 80, are all great served cold and somehow taste even better when you’re perched on a hillside or sitting on a train. These all make great finger foods, as do quesadillas (see page 259) or raw cut vegetables. I pack them with containers of sauces for dipping, such as pesto, mayonnaise or sweet chilli sauce. Indeed, why not try the Crudités and Dips on pages 250–2?

Antipasti from my local farmers’ market also make excellent picnic fare — I might buy olives, artichoke hearts, cheese, salami or prosciutto, a focaccia loaf and a few cherry tomatoes. Hot or cold soup such as gazpacho (see page 48), brought in a flask, is so satisfying when you’re out enjoying the view. See pages 46–62 for some wonderful soup-making ideas.