The locations can vary from a council flat, a suburban semi, a bedsit, a château, a shed, a boat, a warehouse. Some underground restaurants can feed 50 people at a time; others are more intimate affairs of 6–10 people. I’ve even held private dinners for two in my garden shed! The phenomenon is very site specific. Each underground restaurant is as individual as its host…and you have the freedom to fit it around your lifestyle. The style will depend on your space, even the amount of knives and forks you own… David Clasen serves only 12 people because he happens to own just 12 place settings, three tables and a tiny kitchen. I have a large Victorian garden flat, so can fit up to 30 people at a time in my living room. When the weather is good, we can spill out into my garden and balcony. I host my evenings on a Saturday because my daughter is at school during the week and I felt it might be a little distracting for her to arrive home from school on a weekday faced with a horde of strangers in the living room. Horton Jupiter can fit 10 people comfortably in his council-flat living room. Horton is in a band, ‘They came from the stars, I saw them…’ and therefore needs weekends off for gigs. Artist Tony Hornecker’s extraordinary studio space, a little crooked house in the back streets of the East End (soon host to the 2012 Olympics, let’s really show the world how we entertain, eh?), displays his talents as a set designer. The food, although good, is almost secondary to the setting. He sits diners all over his house; couples can even book his bedroom!
Why Start a Supper Club?
The Story of MsMarmiteLover
How to Start Your Own Underground Restaurant
Cooking Notes
Part Two – The Recipes
Cocktails and Nibbles
Daiquiri
Kir Royale
Butterbeer
Butterscotch Schnapps
Popcorn with Lime & Chipotle Sauce
Crack-Cocaine Padrón Peppers
Chipotle Sauce
Bombay Mix
Five-Seed Roast
Marinated Olives
Dukkah
Baba Ganoush
Pitta Bread
Focaccia Bread Shots
A Word About Flour:
Marmite on Toast with Crispy Seaweed
Bloody Marmitey
Edamame
Nice Touches
Starters and Sides
Baked Jalapeño Poppers
Thai Corn Fritters with Sweet and Sour Cucumber Dipping Sauce
Vadai with Yoghurt and Flaked Jaggery
Butternut Squash & Feta Filo Triangles Edged with Poppy Seeds
Gratin of Salsify
Dolmas
Tempura
Kushi Katsu: Japanese Motorway Café Sarnie
Steamed Artichokes with Dijon Mustard Dressing
Chillies en Nogada
Beef and Spring Onion Chinese Dumplings (From Mama Lan’s Supper Club)
Savoury Yoghurt Granita with Caramelised Pine Nuts, Preserved Lemons and Torn Basil
Gammodoki (From Horton Jupiter)
Yuzu Ceviche
Soups
Marmite French Onion Soup
Vegetable Stock
Roasted Cherry Tomato and Garlic Soup
Sorrel Soup
Thai Green Spinach Soup
Cockaleekie without the Cock!
Magic Wizard Pumpkin Soup
Salads
French Beans with Tofu &Walnut sauce
Palm Heart Salad
Mint, Coriander, Onion &Pomegranate Cachumber
Really Great Caesar Salad
Broad Bean, Feta & Mint salad
Pear, Walnut & Gorgonzola Salad
Mâche with Egg & Dijon Mustard Dressing
Grilled Halloumi & Roasted Pepper Salad
Vegetarian Main Courses
Baked Vacherin (Fondue for Cheats)
Eggplant Parmesan (Melanzane Alla Parmigiana)
Quenelles
Basic Curry Spice Mix
Chilli Sin Carne with all the Works
Salsa Asado
Tomatillo Salsa with Chilli En Adobe
Guacamole
Corn Tortillas
Twitter Curry (From Spicy Hardeep Singh Kholi)
Kissing Chutney
Sikh Salad
Coconut Dahl
Tinda Masala
Jewelled Basmati
Butternut Squash & Blue Cheese Risotto
Fresh Pasta Home-Made
Spinach & Ricotta Cannelloni
Il Timpano
Really Good Mac & Cheese
Crêpes ‘You Creep in, Get a Crêpe and Creep Out ’ Victoria Wood on a Date in a Crêperie.
Fish Main Courses
Gratin Dauphinoise with Smoked Salmon
Curing your Own Salmon
Grilled Sardines with Mint
Salt-Baked Fish
Marmite Cheese on Smoked Haddock
Spaghetti Al Cartoccio
Thai-Style Fish in Banana Leaves with Coconut Rice
Stargazy Pie
Meat Main Courses
Spiced Slow-roasted Leg of Lamb with Mujadara (From The Shed)
Mujadara
Casa Saltshaker Locro (From Casa Saltshaker, Buenos Aires)
Quintessential Chicken (From Ben Greeno)
Shin of Beef Ragù (From Sheen Suppers)
Pork Belly with Sage and Fennel Stuffing (From Plum Kitchen, New Zealand)
Rambling Sunday Roast of Pork Belly with Black Pudding, Thyme and Honey Parsnips and Cider Gravy (From the Rambling Restaurant)
Duck Breast with Rhubarb Compote (From Lex Eats)
Slow-cooked Sirloin Steak with Wholegrain Nut Crust, Roasted Baby Beets and Baby Spinach Catalan, Served with Truffle Potato Purée (From The Loft)
Desserts
Mousse au Chocolat Orange with Cointreau and Choc-dipped Physalis
Tarte Tatin with Crème Fraîche Ice Cream
Crème Fraîche Ice Cream
Bergamot Posset with Crystallised Thyme & Lavender Shortbread
Saffron Kulfi with Almond & Cardamom Tuile Biscuits
Giant Pavlova
Salted Caramel
Clafoutis
Easy Apple Strudel
Chav’s White Chocolate Trifle with Malibu
Candied Oranges, Lemons & Limes
Cheese Course
Rye Crispbread
Fig Compote
Themed Menus
Elvis Night
Deep-fried Peanut Butter Sandwiches
Deep-fried Dill Pickles
Shuna’s Cornbread
Candied Yams
Corn-on-the-Cob
Cheese ‘n‘ Grits
Collard Greens
Blackened Catfish
Two Types of Fries
Brokeback Baked Beans
7UP Salad
Pecan Pie
Midnight Feast: The Black Album
Black Russian Cocktail
Black Olive Tapenade
Black Cod’s Roe on Black Bread
Black Sesame Salmon Balls with an Avocado Oil and Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce
Nori Handrolls Stuffed with Black Rice, Black Kale, Black Carrot and Aubergine
Beluga Lentils with Goat’s Cheese
Squid-ink Tortelloni Stuffed with Goat’s Cheese & Lemon Zest with a Death Trumpet Mushroom Cream Sauce
Marmite Chocolate Cupcakes
Flower Menu
Cava with Sweet Yellow Rocket Flowers or Hibiscus Flowers
Courgette Flowers Stuffed with Goat’s Cheese
Elderflower Champagne
Ginger Beer
Elderflower Fritters
Marigold Bread
Nasturtium Leaf Salad with Marigold petals & plum tomatoes
Asparagus Mimosa
Mint & White Chocolate Ice Cream
Flower Ice Bowl
How to Crystallise Herbs & Flowers
Mint Tea with Pine Nuts
Supper Club Directory
Bibliography
Acknowledgements
Picture Credits
Copyright
About the Publisher
Part One – The Notes
Introduction
We think of the restaurant as an ancient institution but in fact it dates back only a couple of hundred years to the French Revolution. Chefs emerging from the households of a destroyed aristocratic class no longer had jobs. The very idea of a restaurant at this time was revolutionary: a place where anybody who had the money could pay to eat. Suddenly, traders were sitting cheek by jowl with aristos; housewives next to duchesses. They were being waited on, not by their own private staff but by serveurs, people who would serve anyone with the financial means.
That was the first revolution in eating out. 2009 was the year of the supper club. A new revolution.
London is a newcomer to the supper-club scene, although in the 1930s an experimental dining club ‘The Half Hundred’, held in the modernist Isokon building in Hampstead, was attended by the artists and intellectuals of the day, such as Agatha Christie and Henry Moore.
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