Olivier Etcheverria - The Restaurant, A Geographical Approach

1 Cover

2 Foreword Foreword The impact of a restaurant’s location on its environment is rarely studied, yet it can be a major factor. We can even talk about a total synergy, and there are many examples: what would the city of Roanne (and even its station!) be without the Troisgros brothers? What would the city of Saulieu be without Bernard Loiseau’s Côte-d’Or , Valence without the Pic , Laguiole without the Bras , Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid without the Marcon , Fontjoncouse without Gilles Goujon, etc.? Lost and unknown places are at the top of the bill thanks to the grace of a restaurateur who attracts amateurs, tourists, the curious among us, etc. The wine-growing regions have understood this impact of gastronomy on their territory and are developing wine tourism at a fast pace and with great success. Because, in fact, what is France’s DNA, if not the combination of food, wine and landscapes? I am delighted that a book is now devoted to this subject. I thank Olivier Etcheverria and I wish all readers a pleasant read! Guy SAVOY Chef Restaurant Guy Savoy 11, quai de Conti, Paris

3 Introduction

4 PART 1: The Restaurant: An Eminently Urban Subject

5 Introduction to Part 1 1 The Geographical Origin of the Restaurant: The Urban Environment1.1. From bouillons… 1.2. … to the establishment 2 The Concentration of Restaurants in the City Centers 2.1. A center-specific logic… 2.2. … to a logic of axes 3 The Geographical Diffusion of Restaurants in Provinces by Cities and City Networks 3.1. The geographical diffusion of restaurants in the provinces: an application of rank-size law… 3.2. … but disrupted by tourism

6 PART 2: The Restaurant in Terms of Places and Geographical Spaces

7 Introduction to Part 2 4 Logics and Strategies for Locating Restaurants 4.1. The logic of proximity 4.2. Accessibility logics 4.3. The logic of landscape charm 4.4. The logic of assimilation 5 Restaurants in the City 5.1. Restaurants in small cities 5.2. Restaurants in average-sized cities 5.3. New dynamics in large cities 6 Restaurants in the Countryside and the Relationship Between Cities and the Countryside 6.1. Restaurants in the countryside 6.2. The restaurant, the city/countryside relationship and nature in the city

8 PART 3: The Restaurant at the Heart of the Tourist System

9 Introduction to Part 3 7 The Relationship Between the Restaurant and Tourism 7.1. Complementary relations between restaurants and tourism 7.2. The interdependence between restaurants and tourism 8 The Restaurant, a Tool for Gourmet Tourism 8.1. Cavaillon 8.2. Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade 8.3. Megève 9 The Restaurant as a Gourmet Tourist Destination 9.1. The gourmet tourist destination: from the 3-star Michelin restaurant… 9.2. … to a network of restaurants

10 PART 4: The Restaurant as a Tool for Local Development

11 Introduction to Part 4 10 Restaurants and Local Development in Urban Areas 10.1. At street level 10.2. At neighborhood level 11 Restaurant and Local Development in Rural Areas 11.1. On the scale of the plateau 11.2. Across the country 11.3. At the village level

12 PART 5: The Restaurant: What Heritage?

13 Introduction to Part 5 12 The Restaurant: From Monument to Heritage12.1. The restaurant as a historical monument 12.2. The restaurant as a showcase for intangible cultural heritage 12.3. The restaurant in heritage 13 Tourists as Actors in the Process of Adding Cultural Heritage to Restaurants 13.1. Parisian brasseries 13.2. Lyon’s bouchons 13.3. La Mère Poulard restaurant in Mont-Saint-Michel 13.4. What about the bouillons?

14 Conclusion

15 References

16 Index

1 Chapter 7Table 7.1. Food practices in space and time (source: Olivier Etcheverria)

1 Chapter 2 Figure 2.1. Menu from the restaurant Véry Figure 2.2. Map of restaurants and cafés at the Palais-Royal at the end of the 1... Figure 2.3. Map of restaurants and cafés at the Palais-Royal today (source: fiel... Figure 2.4. Le Grand Véfour (source: Olivier Etcheverria) Figure 2.5. Inside the Bouillon Racine, located at 3, rue Racine (source: Olivie... Figure 2.6. Restaurant Allard, located at 41, rue Saint-André-des-Arts (source: ...

2 Chapter 3 Figure 3.1. Map of 3-star Michelin restaurants from 1933 to 1939 (source: accord...

3 Chapter 4 Figure 4.1. Map of the location of 3-star Michelin restaurants in Paris in 2019 ...Figure 4.2. Mr. T kebab from the restaurant Mr. T, 38, rue de Saintonge (source:...Figure 4.3. Roast leg of lamb, cut up and served in the slicing car (source: Oli...Figure 4.4. Inside Espace Gourmand Capucin signé Bras (source: Olivier Etcheverr...Figure 4.5. Outside Espace Gourmand Capucin signé Bras (source: Olivier Etchever...Figure 4.6. a) Megève meadowsweet faisselle in a thin shell; b) strawberry and o...Figure 4.7. Map of the location of the Passage des Panoramas restaurants in Pari...Figure 4.8. Caffè Stern , 47, Passage des Panoramas (source: Olivier Etcheverria...Figure 4.9. At Bisou Crêperie , the “Freak crêpe”: Nutella, caramel, Breton shor...Figure 4.10. In Racines , the vitello tonnato (source: Olivier Etcheverria). For...Figure 4.11. Location of Japanese restaurants on rue Sainte-Anne in Paris in 201...Figure 4.12. La Taverne de Zhao, 49, rue des Vinaigriers in Paris (source: Olivi...Figure 4.13. Map of the location of Portuguese restaurants in Versailles in 2019...

4 Chapter 5Figure 5.1. Location map of restaurants selected by the Michelin Guide in Chartr...Figure 5.2. Location map of restaurants selected by the Michelin Guide in Reims ...

5 Chapter 6Figure 6.1. Onion gratin from Bois Giroult with young purslane shoots, Sarawak b...Figure 6.2. Plant-cut purple tartar with cream of horseradish and beetroot (sour...Figure 6.3. Honey-lacquered gardeners’ brioche pie, Kalamata black olive emulsio...Figure 6.4. Tagliolini de maïs torréfié, les épis égraines liés au beurre, tartu...Figure 6.5. Green lentils from Le Puy and caviar, with a delicate eel jelly (sou...Figure 6.6. Creamy malted barley, frosted beer and hops (source: Olivier Etcheve...

6 Chapter 7Figure 7.1. Modern aioli, vegetables from our local market gardeners, Mediterran...Figure 7.2. Cosa croccante (source: Olivier Etcheverria)Figure 7.3. Balade dans le bois de la Chaize at the restaurant La Marine in Noir...Figure 7.4. Smoked ice cream at the restaurant La Marine in Noirmoutier (source:...Figure 7.5. La borgne contemporaine (2nd plate) at Cheval-Blanc Saint-Tropez (so...

7 Chapter 8Figure 8.1. Dining room at the Maison Prévôt restaurant in Cavaillon in which di...Figure 8.2. Lobster and melon casserole at Maison Prévôt restaurant in Cavaillon...Figure 8.3. Château La Coste’s wine cellar designed by Jean Nouvel (source: Oliv...Figure 8.4. Francis Mallmann restaurant: terrace with a view of the kitchen and ...Figure 8.5. a) Warm smoked chocolate pie; b) Ice cream with wood from our mounta...Figure 8.6. Cardon épineux de Plainpalais: at the Flocons de Sel restaurant in M...

8 Chapter 9Figure 9.1. Restaurant Le Pavillon Bleu in Cambo-les-Bains (source: Olivier Etch...

9 Chapter 10Figure 10.1. Map of the location of restaurants and food shops on rue du Nil in ...Figure 10.2. Fish & chips (beer battered hake, mushy peas, tartar sauce) at FTG ...Figure 10.3. Rue du Nil, seen from the Terroirs d’Avenir bakery (source: Olivier...Figure 10.4. Pizza Chèvre de Monsieur Fabre (charcoal dough, goat’s cheese, crea...

10 Chapter 11Figure 11.1. Postcard depicting the Lou Mazuc restaurant (source: Olivier Etchev...Figure 11.2. Map of the hotel-restaurant Bras at the puech du Suquet (source: Mi...Figure 11.3. View of the hotel-restaurant Bras at Puech du Suquet (source: Miche...Figure 11.4. The gargouillou of young vegetables (source: [BRA 02]). For a color...Figure 11.5. Lamb from shepherd Jean-Bernard Maïtia seasoned to the taste of the...Figure 11.6. Jean-Bernard Maïtia’s suckling lamb braised with meadow milk (sourc...Figure 11.7. a) Rotten Carrus hen egg with melanosporum truffle served in a mush...