Karl Schlögel - The Scent of Empires

1 Cover

2 Title Page The Scent of Empires Chanel No. 5 and Red Moscow Karl Schlögel Translated by Jessica Spengler polity

3 Copyright

4 Dedication

5 Extracurricular activity Notes

6 The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution Notes

7 Scentscapes: Proust’s madeleine and historiography Notes

8 When ‘the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain’ (Lenin): the world of scents and the olfactory revolution Notes

9 Departure from the belle époque and clothes for the New Woman: Chanel’s and Lamanova’s double revolution Notes

10 Chanel’s Russian connection Notes

11 French connection in Moscow? The ‘fatherland of workers’ and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov Notes

12 Auguste Michel’s incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume Notes

13 The seductive scent of power: Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova – two careers in the twentieth century Notes

14 From another world: the smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma Notes

15 After the war: man cannot live on bread alone – the New Look and Stilyagi Notes

16 Excursus: the grande dame of German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth Notes

17 How One World smells Notes

18 Not only the Black Square: Malevich’s perfume bottle Notes

19 Bibliography

20 Index

21 End User License Agreement

1 Cover

2 Table of Contents

3 Title Page

4 Copyright

5 Dedication

6 Begin Reading

7 Bibliography

8 Index

9 End User License Agreement

1 Chapter 2 Figure 1Le Bouquet Favori de l’Impératrice (1913) Figure 2Chanel No. 5 by Ernest Beaux, 1926 © akg-images / François Guénet Figure 3Brocard bottle © Philip Goutell, ‘Perfume Projects’, www.perfumeprojects.com

2 Chapter 4 Figure 4Konstantin Verigin, 1940. Irène Bizet Archive (France), from L’Émigration russe …

3 Chapter 5 Figure 5Nadezhda Lamanova, 1880s © Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo Figure 6Fashion design by Nadezhda Lamanova. From Tatiana Strizhenova, Soviet Costume an… Figure 7Scene from Le train bleu by Jean Cocteau. © AFP / Getty Images

4 Chapter 6 Figure 8Sergei Diaghilev painted by Léon Bakst, 1906. Saint Petersburg, State Russian Mu… Figure 9Kitmir Broderie poster

5 Chapter 8 Figure 10Paris World Expo 1937, Soviet pavilion on the right © AFP / Getty Images Figure 11Model of the Palace of Soviets by Boris Iofan © ITAR-TASS News Agency / Alamy St…

6 Chapter 9 Figure 12Polina Zhemchuzhina at her desk Figure 13Gabrielle Chanel in a sailor top with her dog © UtCon Collection / Alamy Stock P… Figure 14Polina Zhemchuzhina with her husband Vyacheslav Molotov, Moscow 1963 © TopFoto Figure 15Polina Zhemchuzhina’s grave in Moscow © Alexander Perepelitsyn / Alamy Stock Photo Figure 16Gabrielle Chanel’s grave in the Cimetière du Bois-de-Vaux, Lausanne © Phil Rees…

7 Chapter 12 Figure 17Olga Chekhova Figure 18Alexander A. Bogomolets Figure 19Edition of the book by Alexander A. Bogomolets, The Prolongation of Life, Kiev, …

8 Chapter 14 Figure 20Kazimir Malevich’s bottle for Severny (‘North’) eau de cologne with polar bear, … Figure 21Bottle of Rallet No. 1 © Philip Goutell, ‘Perfume Projects’, www.perfumeprojects… Figure 22Shtof bottles: Universe of Water Museum, Saint Petersburg. Photographer: Georg S…

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Karl Schlögel

Translated by Jessica Spengler

polity

Originally published in German as Der Duft der Imperien. “Chanel No 5” und “Rotes Moskau” by Karl Schlögel © 2020 Carl Hanser Verlag GmbH & Co. KG, München

This English edition © 2021 by Polity Press

The translation of this work was supported by a grant from the Goethe-Institut.

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ISBN-13: 978-1-5095-4660-2

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data