Benjamin Wallace - The Billionaire's Vinegar

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“Part detective story, part wine history, this is one juicy tale, even for those with no interest in the fruit of the vine…. As delicious as a true vintage Lafite.”

It was the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold.
In 1985, at a heated auction by Christie’s of London, a 1787 bottle of Château Lafite Bordeaux—one of a cache of bottles unearthed in a bricked-up Paris cellar and supposedly owned by Thomas Jefferson—went for $156,000 to a member of the Forbes family. The discoverer of the bottle was pop-band manager turned wine collector Hardy Rodenstock, who had a knack for finding extremely old and exquisite wines. But rumors about the bottle soon arose. Why wouldn’t Rodenstock reveal the exact location where it had been found? Was it part of a smuggled Nazi hoard? Or did his reticence conceal an even darker secret?
It would take more than two decades for those questions to be answered and involve a gallery of intriguing players—among them Michael Broadbent, the bicycle-riding British auctioneer who speaks of wines as if they are women and staked his reputation on the record-setting sale; Serena Sutcliffe, Broadbent’s elegant archrival, whose palate is covered by a hefty insurance policy; and Bill Koch, the extravagant Florida tycoon bent on exposing the truth about Rodenstock.
Pursuing the story from Monticello to London to Zurich to Munich and beyond, Benjamin Wallace also offers a mesmerizing history of wine, complete with vivid accounts of subterranean European laboratories where old vintages are dated and of Jefferson’s colorful, wine-soaked days in France, where he literally drank up the culture.
Suspenseful, witty, and thrillingly strange,
is the vintage tale of what could be the most elaborate con since the Hitler diaries. It is also the debut of an exceptionally powerful new voice in narrative non-fiction.

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Rodenstock had sold eighty bottles to Frericks Ibid.

150,000 marks “400 000 Mark—beim teuersten Wein der Welthört die Freundschaft auf…,” MAZ, February 28, 1991.

They included, besides the two Jefferson bottles “The Mystery of the Lafite 1787,” Decanter, October 1992.

“significant doubt as to [the] origin” “Streit um alte Flaschen,” Stern, April 18, 1991.

13. RADIOACTIVE

A number of details from the GSF bottle opening and analyses came from the report “Weinprobe auf Wissenschanten-Art,” and accompanying photographs, published in the institute’s newsletter, gsf aktuell, vol. X, June/July 1992; and two GSF research reports: H. Y. Göksu, D. F. Regulla, and A. Vogenauer, “Age Determination of Wine Sediments by Thermoluminescence Method” (GSF-Forschungszentrum für Umwelt und Gesundheit, Neuherberg); and Manfred Wolf, “Datierung des Bordeaux ‘1787 Lafitte Th.J.’ durch Kohlenstoff-14-und Tritiumanalysen” (GSFHY 1/93 Neuherberg [1993]).

Broadbent had flown in December 7, 1991, letter from Broadbent to Rarities 1, no. 3.

“I am not particularly impressed” “‘Vintage’ wine,” Times (of London), December 15, 1990.

Wine Spectator had run a cover story March 15, 1991.

he insisted that he had sold “400 000 Mark—beim teuersten…,” MAZ, February 28, 1991.

“friendship price” “Rodenstocks 1787er Lafite,” VIF-Gourmet Journal, no. 3, 1993.

Frericks responded by obtaining a court order “400 000 Mark—beim teuersten…,” MAZ, February 28, 1991.

withdrew his appeal “400 000-Mark-Wein wird entkorkt: Leider fürs Labor,” MAZ, May 18, 1991.

pulled his bottles from Christie’s “400 000 Mark—beim teuersten…,” MAZ, February 28, 1991.

before-and-after photos “Der Fall Lafitte 1787 und die Folgen,” Alles über Wein, no. 4 (1992); “Ein edler Tropfen machte aus zwei Freunden Feinde,” MAZ, July 13, 1991; “The Mystery of the Lafite 1787,” Decanter, October 1992.

“I never had the bottles resealed or sealed” Bunte, date unknown, p. 219.

It tasted, Broadbent said, like the Mouton “1787 Rodenstock Lafite Fails a Test,” WS, August 31, 1992.

“one thousand wines” JMB, New Great Vintage Wine Book, 436.

“was not aware of the significance” Ibid., 437.

“ambitions to rank among” Hans-Peter Frericks, “Presseerklärung,” June 23, 1992.

“the Konrad Kujau of the grapevine” “Der teuerste Wein der Welt ist gepanscht,” Münchner tageszeitung, June 24, 1992.

sometimes claiming tax reasons “Authentic Old Bottles, But Were They Jefferson’s?” WS, March 15, 1991.

he wanted to write about it himself “400 000 Mark—beim teuersten…,” MAZ, February 28, 1991.

publicly called on Rodenstock “Th.J., Fighting Words, and Tangled Vines,” WS, September 30, 1992.

Switzerland… severe disruptions in the old-wine market Rudolf Knoll, Vinum, no. 9 (1992).

“There is almost no interest” “New Tests on Jefferson Bottle Support Rodenstock,” WS, February 28, 1993.

“I just wish Hardy Rodenstock” “A wine market as soft as Mr. Whippy,” The Independent (London), August 29, 1992.

14. LETTERS FROM HUBSI

“the renowned Jefferson Institute” “Statements der Betroffenen,” Alles über Wein, no. 5 (1992).

the “assumption of many wine experts” Rudolf Knoll, Vinum, no. 9 (1992).

“making a false public oath” “Das Ende eines engewöhnlichen Weinkrimis,” Falstaff, no. 1 (1993).

Rodenstock sought to cast suspicion on GSF “Statements der Betroffenen,” Alles über Wein, no. 5 (1992).

GSF responded that Broadbent “Das Ende eines…,” Falstaff, no. 1 (1993).

The lead in the wine gsf aktuell, June/July 1992.

thus evidence of tampering “Das Ende eines…,” Falstaff, no. 1 (1993).

a police raid on GSF “Der Wahrheit ein Stück näher,” Alles über Wein, no. 1 (1993).

“A reliable dealer” “1787er Gepanscht,” Weinwirtschaft Markt, July 10, 1992.

“a photo montage” or “an optical trick” “1787 Rodenstock Lafite Fails a Test,” WS, August 31, 1992.

a Bad Marienberg photo studio “The Mystery of the Lafite 1787,” Decanter, October 1992; “Statements der Betroffenen,” Alles über Wein, no. 5, 1992.

Frericks’s lawyer retorted Ibid.

“[Clearly] Mr. Frericks didn’t expect” Ibid.

“I have sealed all the bottles” “Jefferson’s Paris Wines Found,” VWGJ, Fall 1985.

Scheuermann then wrote an article “Ein Weinstreit mit Nachspiel,” Welt am Sonntag, no. 26 (1992?).

“Somebody is carrying out active protection” Knoll, Vinum, no. 9 (1992).

It is extremely important for the determination “Verborgene Keller,” Der Spiegel, October 28, 1991.

Rodenstock had earlier suggested to Der Spiegel Ibid.

“in case the scientists were to reveal” Knoll, Vinum, no. 9 (1992).

“steaming turds” “Verborgene Keller,” Der Spiegel, October 28, 1991.

Hubert Meier Knoll, Vinum, no. 9 (1992).

“Hubsi” “Nach den Umarmung die Schelt,” Vinum, no.3 (1992).

“Little Darling” Vinum, no. 7 (1991).

“Uschi Berthold” “Hubsi und Usch,” Vinum, no. 7 (1991).

“a very keen wine man”… Hall was going to test “Response from Michael Broadbent,” August 12, 1992, letter to Rarities 1, no. 4.

Eschnauer… rejected Rodenstock’s contention “Verborgene Keller,” Der Spiegel, October 28, 1991.

“adulterated the wine or knowingly offered adulterated wine” “Wine Lover’s Nose for Fakery Leads to Famous Bottles,” Wall Street Journal, September 1, 2006.

“wine couldn’t be younger than 1795” “The Results of the New Tests,” December 15, 1992, letter from Rodenstock to Foley, published in Rarities 2, no. 1.

Rodenstock gloated Rodenstock’s January 21 and February 15, 1993, letters, and Broadbent’s February 23, 1993, letter, to Foley, published in Rarities 2, no. 1.

Rodenstock and Frericks tentatively agreed “Rodenstocks 1787er Lafite,” VIF-Gourmet Journal, no. 3 (1993).

“Churchill always said” “Das Ende eines…,” Falstaff, no. 1 (1993).

an entirely personal tangent “The Final Word on Hardy Rodenstock,” Rarities 2, no. 1.

wouldn’t reach a final settlement until 1995 “Wine Lover’s Nose for Fakery…,” Wall Street Journal, September 1, 2006.

Rodenstock claimed that his business “The Final Word on Hardy Rodenstock,” Rarities 2, no. 1.

“the awe-inspiring vulgarity” “Les Cinq À Tokyo,” Decanter, July 1993.

“extraordinary charm and graciousness” “What About Now?” The Wine Advocate, issue 103.

captured him and Rodenstock “Das Münchener Weinwochenende” (photo), Falstaff, no. 1, 1996.

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