Kathleen Reed: How I Saw Hitler on My Summer Vacation

Date: August 13, 1938

Place: Keswick, England

Weather: Cold — but so nice.

Tonight I am sitting in bed covered with lots of blankets and a cozy eiderdown comforter. We adore our room here at the Royal Oak Hotel. We left London at Noon for Keswick. It was a long, dirty train ride but the countryside held our attention. What an experience, eating on the train! A conductor strutted down the aisle shouting, “First sitting,” or “Second sitting,” and then handed us a little card, according to our choice. We picked the second sitting. When he called out a sitting, the people dashed madly behind him into the dining car. Everyone ate the same thing, all at once, and downed it as rapidly as possible. It seemed like a race to see who could eat the quickest.

As the train gradually approached the mountains, the countryside grew lovelier. We stopped right in the midst of all this beauty, at Keswick. It is a little bit of heaven — although a rather chilly heaven. After dinner, I took a walk down to Derwentwater Lake, which is dotted with islands. With the majestic mountains mirrored in the placid water, the view could inspire one to poetry! If Switzerland is as lovely as Keswick, I shall be most happy.

Date: August 14, 1938

Place: Keswick England

Weather: Perfect; a little chilly.

It is amazing the way these English gals run around in thin, short sleeved dresses, while we freeze in our suits! This has been a perfect day, weather and all. After rising early this morning, I took the 8:00 bus to Lodore Falls. The Falls were not as prolific as expected, (considering the recent rainfall) but the frothy water did tumble and splash over the large boulders. The surroundings were most beautiful. I wandered along the bank, climbing over smaller boulders that were draped in rich green moss. I almost fell once, and nearly lost my shoe, another time. That was a grand little exploration trip. I returned to Keswick in time to take a walk down to the lake with Margy, before embarking on our tour of the 11 lakes. We certainly enjoyed that trip. We met a dark and good-looking fellow from the Malay States, who was on an eight-month holiday trip of England. He seemed quite taken with Margy and invited us to tea.

The mountains and lakes were lovelier than anything I have seen. Stone fences ambled all over the sides of the mountains. We went through several wicket gates and I saw a good old-fashioned stile. We saw purple hazes of heather, growing on the hillsides, but I am waiting to pick some in Scotland, where my Grandfather McPhail was born.

Date: August 15, 1938

Place: Keswick to Glasgow

Weather: Definitely chilly.

Even though we arranged for morning transportation to the train station, no one showed up at our hotel! In desperation, I begged for help from a complete stranger. He was very gracious and accommodating, so we arrived at the station just in time! The journey to Glasgow (Scotland’s largest city) was nice, albeit a long one. We obtained a non-smoking carriage, and therein met the cutest little Scottish boy named Stuart MacDonald. He was adorable, and we kept asking him questions just to hear his accent. Margy and I had struggled greatly to understand the English accent and pronunciation, but the minute we struck Scotland and heard the first touch of brogue, my ancestors came to my assistance, and I just loved it. We could listen to the Scottish talk all day.

The train arrived in Glasgow at 2:30 but no one met us! There must have been a mix-up, for the hotel had no record of our reservation! We secured a nice room at the North British Hotel, and then sallied forth to view No. 10 Nelson, where my Grandfather McPhail was born. We arrived there on a bus and were greatly chagrinned to find an elevated railway track where No. 10 used to be. The closest thing to it was a hole in the wall marked “Gentlemen.”

We completed the day with a visit to the Empire Exhibition, where we rode around the grounds on a miniature railway train that had a diesel engine. We also took a daring elevator ride to the top of the 300-foot high modernistic tower. A shallow little pond with many fountains displayed pretty colors when lit up at night. I had a dreadful time pulling myself away from the Scottish souvenirs, but limited my purchases to some cards for Dad.

PS: The public square outside our window is decorated with colored lights and it looks just like Christmas time.

Date: August 16, 1938

Place: Edinburgh

Weather: Cold and rainy.

After an early breakfast, we arranged to have our bags checked thru to Edinburgh so we could enjoy the Trossachs tour free of luggage. It started to rain just about the time we left the hotel in Glasgow and it continued more or less all day. It was so cold! In ordinary weather, this Highland trip would have been glorious. We took a train to Ballock Pier, on the south end of Loch Lomond. Our boat drifted past many small green islands, of which there are dozens, depending on the water level. In spite of the gray skies, the countryside was most colorful with the green grass and purple heather. We had lunch at the Trossachs Hotel, and then caught the train to Edinburgh.

Date: August 17, 1938

Place: Edinburgh, Scotland

Weather: Rather chilly but NO RAIN!

It certainly is cold up in this part of the country and I would give a ransom for a hot water bottle at my feet right now. We started the day with shopping, then headed for Edinburgh Castle. The castle, built on an extinct volcano, dominates the area. Even if you are not facing it, you can just feel it towering over you. Perched high above the city, it looks just like the castles you read about in fairy tales. One can see for miles from the castle courtyard. We followed a guide through the castle and learned that the moat was never filled with water, because the castle was too high! The drawbridge, instead of drawing up, drops down. All of this uniqueness was the result of an error in engineering. We saw the seven gates, and heard a loud boom from the cannon that goes off every day at 1:00 pm. After tea, we spent the rest of the day shopping in Edinburgh, where I purchased many plaid things.

Date: August 18, 1938

Place: Overnight crossing to The Hague

Weather: Chilly but fair.

Thank goodness, it was not necessary for us to change trains during our 11-hour ride to Chadwick, although we did grow weary of sitting. After boarding the boat to The Hague, we realized that it was fun riding on a steamer ship again. The throbbing of the engines is a pleasant sensation. The staterooms are tiny and the boat is rather crowded. We purchased some Dutch money, and now have the opportunity to adapt to a new currency. Here’s for a smooth overnight crossing!

Date: August 19, 1938

Place: Holland — all over

Weather: Grand — but dreadfully windy.

We were up at 5 a.m., and ready to land shortly before 6 a.m. They say it was a rough crossing but I will have to confess to remembering little about it except being nicely rocked to sleep. Upon landing, we were graciously greeted by a tour representative.